11 Must-Stop Spots In The Mississippi Delta

In 1935, David Cohn wrote, “the Mississippi Delta begins in the lobby of the Peabody Hotel...if you stand near its fountain in the middle of the lobby, where the ducks waddle and the turtles drowse, you will see everybody who is anybody in the Delta.” As a native Memphian, I have spent countless afternoons and evenings in the lobby of the Peabody Hotel. And as the daughter-in-law of a Mississippi Delta native—from the small town of Hollandale, to be exact—I have heard a great many stories that hint at both the glories and the complexities of the Mississippi Delta. 

At 200 miles long and 87 miles wide, the Yazoo-Mississippi Delta (it’s proper name) is the section of land between the Yazoo and Mississippi rivers. It exists because of the regular flooding of those two rivers over many, many years. At almost 7,000 square miles of alluvial floodplain, this area is known to be one of the most fertile areas of land in the country.

Cohn was right in what he said. Folks from the Delta often do wind up in Memphis for a job, or for bustling city life, or for love. These days, the Delta is quieter than it once was for a great many reasons, but I’ve met enough Delta locals here in Memphis to make me understand just how special the region really is, complicated history and all. Here are the 11 best places to see and eat in the Mississippi Delta.

Things To Do In The Mississippi Delta

Take a Riverboat Cruise

You can read Mark Twain’s books about the Mississippi River, listen to stories around the fire about the Mississippi River, and learn about the exhilarating power of Mississippi River. But you don’t really know the Mississippi River until you’ve been out on it. There are short cruises that begin and end in Memphis if you only have a few hours to spare, but you can also take much longer cruises of the entire Mississippi Delta. Book a trip to travel from New Orleans to Memphis, stopping off in Vicksburg, Natchez, and Greenville along the way.

Visit the South's Grammy Museum

The original Grammy Museum is located in Los Angeles, California, but because of the profound impact the music of the Mississippi Delta has made on American music overall, the founders chose to put the second Grammy Museum in the tiny, but important town of Cleveland, Mississippi. The heat, hard-times, and history of the Delta all came together to create a culture filled with people who knew how to tell stories with song. The roots of several important genres can be traced  back to the rich soil of this one spot and if you find yourself in Cleveland, a visit to the Grammy Museum is surely in order. 

grammymuseumms.org; 800 W Sunflower Rd, Cleveland, MS 38732

Take in the Beauty of Sky Lake

Because they are resistant to decay, absorbers of floodwaters, and erosion preventers, Cypress tress thrive in the Mississippi Delta. At Sky Lake in Belzoni, you can enjoy the view with many Cypress trees flanking the shores, some being over 1,000 years old. With the help of Wildlife Mississippi, an extensive boardwalk has been built over Sky Lake and a paddling trail has been laid out. Now, thanks to the boardwalk, anyone can walk out among the famous Cypress trees.

Explore the Local Architecture

There are so many historic homes and structures you're able to tour in Natchez. Stop by Longwood (via Natchez Pilgrimage Tours)—the largest octagonal home in the United States—which spans six stories and 30,000 square feet and is topped with a stately dome. It uniquely remains unfinished. Construction, which began in 1860, was cut short by the Civil War the following year. Nonetheless, the exterior is still interestingly reflective of the architecture of the time, and the home is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is a National Historic Landmark.

natchezpilgrimage.com; 140 Lower Woodville Rd, Natchez, MS 39120

Stay in a Charming Secluded Cottage

In Shaw, Peacock Cottage is set back off the road, behind both the crops and the owners' house, belonging to a farming family. Available to book for those visiting the area, the cottage itself is tiny with a worthy collection of books hanging out in the bookshelves. A screened porch has been fitted onto the back of the house, overlooking a grassy meadow with rolled bails of hay. Next to the cottage and open to guests is a clear, cold swimming pool that harkens to the 1970s. The owners are kind and gracious hosts, a perfect depiction of the heart of Delta people.

vrbo.com; 928 MS-448, Shaw, MS 38773

Places To Eat in the Mississippi Delta

Doe's Eat Place

In Greenville, Dominick “Doe” Signa and his wife Mamie opened Doe’s in 1941. Housed in the same building Doe’s father used as a grocery store in years past, Mamie was famous for her tamales, and the spot (including a front seating area and dining room honkey-tonk in the back) soon become a thriving desegregated place where everyone was welcome. These days, everybody is served in the front, and the honky-tonk is long gone, but the food remains just as good. Doe’s Eat Place has since opened satellite locations in other cities.

doeseatplace.com; 502 Nelson St, Greenville, MS 38701

Delta Meat Market

Chef Cole Ellis returned to his hometown of Cleveland, Mississippi and opened a restaurant that reflect both his extensive knowledge of really good food, as well as his intimate knowledge of the culture of his own people. My visit there made it feel like we were stopping in a perfectly honed vintage kitchen where we might run into someone we know. With menu choices like cornbread and sorghum butter, burnt ends and grits, and moon pie bread pudding, Delta Meat Market keeps the front door revolving, with friends and neighbors always ready for this week’s menu. 

deltameatmarket.com; 215 Cotton Row, Cleveland, MS 38732

The Beauty Shop

Many restaurants around Memphis capture the spirit of the Delta, but none is quite as spot-on as The Beauty Shop. As Priscilla Presley’s early “curl-and-dye spot,” the retro-inspired restaurant, opened by Karen Carrier, uses vibrantly colored glass and funky mix-and-match vintage decor to transport diners through time while keeping the menu wonderfully modern and fresh. The Pan-roasted Barramundi is my favorite dish in all of Memphis, second only to the Grilled Romaine Salad, also a Beauty Shop delight.

thebeautyshoprestaurant.com; 966 Cooper St, Memphis, TN 38104

H.D. Gibbes and Sons

Everything about this restaurant in Learned, Mississippi, oozes authenticity. The corrugated metal roof, porch front rocking chairs, and screen doors are all true to the original building that has housed H.D. Gibbes and Sons since the late 1800s. The store is open six days a week serving hamburgers and chips for those who are hungry. But on weekend nights, the menu is elevated and the Gibbes family serves steak, lamb chops, and seafood backdropped by live music and communal seating.

hdgibbesandsons.com; 140 Main St, Learned, MS 39154

Chamoun's Rest Haven

In the late 1930s, Chafik Chamoun and his wife Louise immigrated from Lebanon to the United States through New York Harbor. They purchased a grocery store in Clarksdale, and the Chamoun's speciality was lunch menu items, particularly kibbee sandwiches. A few decades later, the opportunity arose for them to purchase Rest Haven restaurant. With that, they introduced a more thorough Lebanese menu. When I ask friends where to eat in the Delta, Chamoun’s is always one of their first suggestions.

facebook.com/Resthaven-Restaurant; 419 S State St, Clarksdale, MS 38614

Kathryn's

The small town of Moon Lake was, at one time, part of the Mississippi River. Now, it is a quiet lake that serves as a destination for those seeking a relaxing escape. Kathryn’s, an Italian restaurant that was started in 1937, is located on the edge of Moon Lake, offering the perfect place to enjoy a dinner out around a gingham draped table.

kathrynssteaks.com; 5770 Moon Lake Rd, Lula, MS 38644