American Spirit: Chef Edward Lee's New Book Explores Kentucky's Beloved Drink

Bourbon has taken on many different cultural identities throughout the United States. In chef and writer Edward Lee’s latest book, Bourbon Land: A Spirited Love Letter to My Old Kentucky Whiskey, he focuses on the quintessential liquor of his home state from its earliest iterations to today—or as he puts it, "from the temperance movement, when it was blamed for every evil, to now, when it’s the trendiest, coolest thing on the planet."

Bourbon's Big Comeback

Lee characterizes the amber spirit as “time trapped in a bottle.” It’s an apt description for a drink that distinctly captures a specific place and tradition. It was once forsaken in favor of clear alcohols such as gin and vodka, but the resurgence in classic cocktails like the old-fashioned, coupled with factors like a post-9/11 desire to buy American-made products, led to a mid-2000s bourbon boom. His new book contextualizes its ever-growing popularity and extensive production process.

“I don’t think people understand how much time goes into bourbon. They see an age statement (like four, five, or six years) and think that’s the total amount of time it took. But it’s actually far more than that. Think about how long it takes for the corn to grow—plus the 70 or so years required for the tree to mature,” he says, referencing the oak needed for the barrels.

The Savory Side of Bourbon

The liquor’s flavor is often as misunderstood as its production. “It has been misrepresented as something sweet, but to me, the really interesting notes of bourbon start with the savory,” Lee says. He appreciates its earthy hints of leather or hay and the smoky aroma that comes from aging it in charred casks.

Not only will this tome convince you to take a sip, but it will also make you want to cook with bourbon. Lee even recommends using the spirit in tandem with delicate ingredients like fish or in a refreshing watermelon salad despite its robust flavor.

Bourbon Land has interviews with the folks who are intimately involved in creating the liquor and provides the backgrounds on major distillers in the region. Lee also collected cocktail recipes from notable mixologists—exemplifying how far bourbon has come since the early days of his career when it was relegated to being a cook’s shift drink. “The bartender wasn’t going to give you the high-end vodka that was selling, so he poured you a shot of Wild Turkey because it sat in the back of the bar. No one drank it,” he says.

Thankfully, times have changed.