Chowchow

Chowchow is a pickled relish designed to preserve the best of summer's bounty. Appearing in many early Southern cookbooks as "piccalilli" or "Indian pickle," it has always consisted of vegetables pickled in a canning jar and served cold as a condiment. The types of vegetables can vary depending on where you find it. While it often includes tomatoes, onions, cabbage, and bell peppers, chowchow could also have carrots, beans, cauliflower, or other vegetables in the mix.

Chowchow's origins are widely debated, with some saying it came from China, and others insisting it came from Canada via the Acadian people who settled in Louisiana.

This recipe, shared by Jessica B. Harris, originates with her childhood friend Charlotte Lyons. Lyons' version includes cabbage and dried pico de pájaro chiles for a kick, along with heirloom tomatoes. Lyon worked as Ebony Magazine's food editor for 25 years, from 1984 to 2010, but this chowchow recipe goes back before her storied food career to when she was a kid in Atlanta.

The recipe began with her great grandmother, and Lyons' grandmother and mother each put their own spin on it as it was passed down. Lyons' variation is the perfect blend of sweet and hot; it's so good she once marketed it as "Greenie's Country Kitchen Chow Chow" and managed to get Walmart interested.

What Is Chowchow?

Chowchow is a pickled relish and Southern staple, good on just about anything. A great way to preserve and use up an abundance of summer vegetables, classic chowchow versions typically include tomatoes, bell peppers, onions, and cabbage, all pickled in a sweet or spicy brine, depending on how you like yours. Recipes are often passed down through generations of family members, and it's always a welcome item on the table.

What Does Chowchow Taste Like?

Chowchow can vary wildly from cook to cook, especially when it comes to what ingredients are included and the level of spice. Overall, this sweet, tangy condiment is a cold, pickled relish that enhances just about any dish, from pork chops to greens. It can be folded into deviled eggs or heaped onto hotdogs and hamburgers. The options are pretty much endless, and it always adds a kick of flavor to any dish it touches.

Ingredients for Chowchow

To make a batch of chowchow, you'll need:

• Cabbage: Green or red will work.
• Green-colored heirloom tomatoes: Any heirloom tomatoes will work, but we like the firmer green tomatoes. They hold up better in the pickling process.
• White onions
• Green and red bell peppers
• Canning and pickling salt
• White vinegar
• Sugar
• Allspice
• Dry mustard
• Dried pico de pájaro chiles: If you can't find the chiles, substitute with crushed red pepper flakes.

How To Make Chowchow

The full recipe for chowchow is below, but here's a brief recap:

• Step 1. Salt vegetables: Place cabbage, tomatoes, onions, and peppers in a nonreactive container. Sprinkle with salt; toss to combine, cover and let stand at room temperature at least 6 hours. Drain mixture well; rinse and drain again. Set aside.
• Step 2. Ready jars: Prepare (1-pint) jars for filling using traditional canning methods.
• Step 3. Cook chowchow: Stir together vinegar, sugar, allspice, dry mustard, and chiles in a large stockpot; cover and bring to a boil. Uncover; reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add vegetable mixture; stir to combine. Cover and bring to a boil. Uncover and simmer for 10 minutes.
• Step 4. Store chowchow: Fill jars and seal. Store for up to 18 months.